(Norma Kamali, Calvin Klein, and Susanne Bartsch)
The Museum at FIT filled to the brim Thursday evening to celebrate the iconic style of New York City nightlife goddess Susanne Bartsch at her fashion retrospective, Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch. The exhibition featured over a hundred designs from Bartsch’s personal collection, as well as many of the fierce looks she’s served over the years as a nightlife luminary at Copacabana, Happy Valley, and Savage; as an organizer at her AIDS benefit, Love Ball; and most recently, from her work as a party promoter at venues like Le Bain at The Standard.
The looks from designers Rachel Auburn, The Blonds, Leigh Bowery, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen, Rick Owens, Vivienne Westwood, and Zaldy were displayed on chic mannequins that lined the basement of the museum, parts of which were set up to evoke Bartsch's apartment in the Chelsea Hotel. Of the exhibit, Bartsch said, “Now that I see all the mannequins together, it’s amazing. I walk through and all of these beautiful and different memories start to kick in.”
Memories kicked in not just for Bartsch. Many of the attendees were former and current nightlife personalities who’ve turned outlandish looks alongside Bartsch herself. “It’s all absolutely amazing,” said visual artist and former clubkid Emperor Vanity Society. “I’m really proud of her. Her impact on nightlife fashion is huge. People have always really dressed up for her parties because she allows for a total creativity of expression.”
“What she has done for nightlife is incredible, especially the ways in which she’s given people who can’t express themselves the ability to express themselves,” added Devin Kelly, a frequent host of Bartsch's events. “She has always provided a platform of expression for others, and now she gets one of her own.”
Many in the crowd took advantage of the exhibit’s space to pay homage to Bartsch’s aesthetic, mimicking her trademark marriage of high-fashion and street style with bright colors and extravagant headpieces. The crowd also included a bevy of Bartsch’s famous friends including Amanda Lepore, RuPaul, Carson Kressley, and designers Norma Kamalie and Calvin Klein.
Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch will be on view through December 5.